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7 days in Bosnia and Herzegovina: a first-timer's route

Bosnia and Herzegovina rewards a slow week. The distances are short, the coffee is slower than you expect, and the best moments tend to happen between the famous sights rather than at them. This is a gentle first-timer’s route: enough structure to feel sorted, enough slack to follow a recommendation down a side street.

Trip at a glance

Length
7 days, one-way Sarajevo to Mostar
Best months
Late May, June, and September
Getting around
A rental car is easiest; intercity buses are good and cheap
Currency
Convertible mark (BAM), pegged to the euro
Bascarsija, the old bazaar quarter of Sarajevo.

The route, day by day

  1. Day 1 and 2: Sarajevo

    Bascarsija, the coppersmiths, the Tunnel of Hope, and an evening on the hills above the city. Build in a slow morning coffee; it is the whole point.

  2. Day 3: Jajce

    A waterfall in the middle of town and a fortress above it. An easy half-day stop on the way west.

  3. Day 4: Travnik and Pliva lakes

    Vizier-era old town, then the watermills on the lakes for lunch with your feet near the water.

  4. Day 5: Mostar

    Arrive before the day-trippers leave. The Stari Most is worth the crowds, but the side lanes are where you will want to linger.

  5. Day 6: Blagaj and Pocitelj

    The dervish house at the spring of the Buna, then the stone-stepped Ottoman village downriver.

  6. Day 7: Kravice waterfalls

    A wide curtain of falls and pools to swim in before the trip home.

Where everything sits

The whole route is a loose arc across the centre and south of the country. Here are the anchor stops.

The week, from Sarajevo down to the Mostar region.

A week is enough to see all of this without rushing, and short enough that you will already be planning the next trip on the way home.

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